The artichoke is much appreciated in Italian cuisine, not just for its flavor and history as a prominent ingredient, but also for its low caloric value (hence its recommendation in many weight loss diets). Additionally, its leaves also possess a medicinal effect. It can be prepared in a wide variety of ways; one of the most representative, especially in Roman culinary tradition, is carciofi alla giudia (Roman fried artichokes).
The same cuisine for four centuries
The type of artichoke used to prepare this dish is the mammola, which got its name from its round shape (since mammella means ‘breast’ in Italian). Mammola doesn’t have thorns and its leaves are tender and soft (so there is nothing to discard, unlike other types of artichoke). It is original of the fields surrounding Rome, another reason why it has been used to make Roman fried artichokes for the past four centuries.
The delicacy of the Jewish quarter
The name of this recipe was first mentioned in books of Jewish food from 16th century. It uses the word giudeo, which means ‘Jewish’ in Italian. This dish is typical of the Jewish neighborhood in Rome, called ghetto. This area of the capital still specializes in dishes of the Jewish tradition, such as fried vegetables (like zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella cheese), anchovies, and these artichokes.
In this recipe they are fried “head down”, with their leaves spread out across the entirety of the pan. While they are now considered a side dish, they were consumed to stop the fasting during Kippur.
The right wine
I suggest a Franciacorta Satin, the sparkling wine produced in the east of Lombardy, or a red wine like the Sicilian Nero d’Avola, with its soft flavor and minimal tannins (as the artichoke is already rich with tannins).
